Divers > L'atelier
Embrayage à sec "silencieux"
Fabrizio:
sauf erreur, de base les DL sont de 2mm et le bombé est de 1,5mm.
là où j'écris /DL 1,5/ , je remplace le DL 2mm prévu par un autre de 1,5mm, que tu es obligé d'acheter à part.
Tout ça est bien sur dans le but d'avoir la marge idéale en bout de noix.
2,5mm en bout de noix avec disques neuf...., je trouve ça aussi ''pas beaucoup''!
monkeeman-67:
Problème enfin sur une ducati ce n'est pas un problème mais quelque chose de normal 😂.
Je vous mets en copie du message la capture d'ecran de la notice, j'ai juste du modifier le dernier disque lisse (celui qui est sur le plateau de pression). Initialement sur la notice il devait y avoir un disque de 2mm j'ai simplement remplacer ce disque par un disque lisse de 1,5mm que j'ai pris de l'ancien kit.
Et la problème régler un embrayage comme j'avais avant.
!Ben!:
--- Citation de: Guillaume69 le 23 décembre 2020, 18H 09mn 58s ---3-4 mm ?
--- Fin de citation ---
Je vise 4 mm sur un empilement 8 garnis toutafé.
Plus sur un 7 garnis. :wink:
Les embrayages a sec dernière génération on un disque de plus une entretoise derrière la cloche différentes... Sur certaines mob les axes de boite et l'écrou central du primaire est totalement différent.
Guillaume69:
Salut à tous!!
Je poste ici un petit lien vers un fil très instructif trouvé sur le forum US (Ducati.ms) concernant les embrayages à sec dont l’auteur est un membre dénommé « Shazaam ». C’est en anglais, mais pour ceux qui peuvent le lire, c’est vraiment hyper bien expliqué.
https://www.ducati.ms/threads/new-clutch-and-now-you-can’t-find-neutral.732081/
:cheers:
EDIT: pour une raison que j’ignore, le lien ne veut pas fonctionner. Je poste donc directement le contenu ci-dessous:
————————————————————
A common problem arises when you experience shifting into neutral at a stop after you have replaced your clutch.
Here’s what you need to know about your clutch
Clutch Plate Stacking
The following figure demonstrates that there are a number of different ways that Ducati recommends that clutch plates be ordered.
The number of plates and the order of stacking is not the main concern, although convex plates are recommended to be installed dish side facing out to reduce judder during launch. Aftermarket clutch plate vendors will often supply a different plate stack than the Ducati OEM clutch so you need not necessarily be alarmed.
The important thing to remember here is to install the correct plate stack HEIGHT specified by Ducati for your particular model. The correct plate stack height assures that the clutch springs are preloaded enough to apply sufficient force on the pressure plate to prevent the from clutch slipping. If you installed aftermarket springs with a different spring rate, you may need to adjust your stack height to compensate.
Over time, as friction material wears, the plate stack height decreases, the spring preload decreases and eventually the clutch slips due to a combination of friction material loss and reduced clutch spring forces. Often, restoring the plate stack height by substituting (one or more) 2.0 mm flat plates for 1.5 mm plates will extend the service life of the clutch. Apply wide-open throttle in top gear and if the clutch slips, replace it.
Clutch Plate Separation
When you pull the clutch pump lever, the slave cylinder moves the pushrod, which in turn moves the pressure plate to disengage the clutch.
The hydraulic clutch system is self adjusting. This means that as the clutch stack height increases when you install a new clutch pack, or decreases as the friction material wears — the amount of plate separation doesn’t change. This is because the volume of displaced fluid is constant.
Lesson: Changing the plate stack height WILL NOT affect plate separation or clutch drag.
Caution: You will always decrease the amount of clutch plate separation by installing an larger aftermarket clutch slave cylinder. The larger the diameter of the clutch slave, the less clutch plate separation will occur. This is often the reason for difficulty finding neutral at a stop for a used clutch, and for a new clutch in particular.
Clutch Lever Free Play
A master cylinder is sized to supply a fixed fluid volume to the slave cylinder. This is accomplished during a lever pull by venting excess fluid away and back to the fluid reservoir using an internal vent port. The master cylinder lever is adjusted at the factory to have a small amount (5% of full lever travel) of free play that assures that the vent port is not occluded by the cylinder seal. Excess fluid goes out the vent port no matter what the piston starting point/free play.
Do not adjust lever free play in an attempt to reduce clutch drag.
Lesson: Adjusting the lever free-play has NO EFFECT on the volume of fluid movement, plate separation or clutch drag.
Caution: When you install aftermarket levers on the master cylinders the free play adjustment needs to be checked and adjusted if necessary. You should also check the free play on any used bike to be safe.
Warning: Without sufficient clutch or brake lever free play, a motorcycle will experience clutch slippage after the engine reaches full operating temperature and unintentional instantaneous BRAKE LOCKUP.
If you don’t know what you are doing, don’t attempt this adjustment. It’s factory sealed/locked for a good reason.
Clutch Reach Adjustment
As the seal on the master cylinder moves past the vent port and pressurizes the hydraulic fluid, any additional movement determines the fluid volume displaced. If you increase the fluid volume moved by the master cylinder, you increase the volume displaced in the slave cylinder and therefore increase plate separation.
So, you can increase the amount of plate separation a little on some Ducati models (see Owners Manual) that provide an adjustment for increasing the reach distance between the handlebar and clutch lever — that is if your hand comfort level and size permits.
New Clutch Dragging
There are two reasons for clutch drag causing difficulty finding neutral after installing a new clutch pack.
First, the friction plates do not move freely in-and-out in the clutch basket. This will occur if the replacement friction plates have excess material on the fingers preventing free movement — so you get drag. Use a file to remove any excess material. A new clutch basket will result in a tighter fit between the basket fingers and the new clutch plate tabs.
Second, new friction plates are often excessively thick (greater than 2.5 mm or 3 mm spec.) — and not of uniform thickness — and consequently will drag on adjacent flat plates (certainly more than the discarded worn plates).
Said another way, the new plates can have decreased the amount of plate separation resulting in more clutch drag when you disengage the clutch. It will take some mileage before the clutch plates have smoothed out sufficiently to reduce the drag that’s causing finding neutral difficult/impossible at a stop.
Old Clutch Dragging
The reason why you suddenly or over time experience clutch dragging is that air has entered the hydraulic system. Compared to hydraulic fluid, air is highly compressible, so when you pull the lever the slave cylinder and pressure plate don’t more as much. The separation between plates is decreased and you get more contact between plates. The solution is to remove the air by bleeding the clutch system.
Again, the other reason is that you have installed an excessively large diameter aftermarket slave cylinder to decrease lever pull force needed. Slave cylinders in excess of 30 mm can be problematic unless paired with a larger clutch master cylinder.
Shazaam!
morphi:
Very interesting indeed, cela explique mes problèmes pour trouver le neutre avec un récepteur de 30mm sur mon 996. :cheers:
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